Before we get to learn how to plant shrubs, you need to know about the optimal weather conditions. There are some months of the year when it is not advisable to grow a new tree or shrub.
The surface freezes in the winter and during the summer, you have to water a lot to make sure the soil is moist. Practically, the atmospheric patterns during certain seasons stress out young plants.
Know the Seasons
Plant the shrubs in the fall to allow them the maximum chance of developing in the habitat by next spring. The season provides the most time for new shrubs to establish themselves prior to the actual temperature and strain of next summer.
Cooler air above the land is gentler on shrub foliage and decreases the likelihood of any energy-zapping domino effect in the shrub. The soil is still quite warm underneath the surface, creating an ideal climate for stimulating and fostering new root development. Autumn’s colder air and mild soil temperatures allow for the perfect match for your plant to flourish. If you plant your shrubs during the fall, they should be growing quite nicely by next summer.
Now, let’s get on with the steps of how to plant shrubs.
Choose the Planting Spot
Note the plant’s specifications when considering a planting spot. Assess the land and sunlight needs. Put the shrub in a spot where it would be able to grow high and big without being hindered by power poles or surrounding trees, walls, houses, or other obstacles.
Without this, you could be adding needless additional labor to your workload by pruning the shrub so that it does not spread into power poles or along sidewalks.
Look at the instructions to see the plant’s light requirements. If it says full sun, then it is defined as at least 6 hours of clear, continuous sunshine, while the partial sun is defined as 3-6 hours of sunlight during the day, and shade is defined as almost no sun whatsoever.
Many shrubs are resilient to a wide range of soil types considering the drainage is maintained properly. Soil and rocky areas are more vulnerable to drainage issues than fertile or moist lands. To measure the seepage where you want to plant, make a hole and pour water.
Check back on the hole after a couple of hours. The land is well-drained if you see no surface water in the hole. But if water persists, this means low drainage, and shrubs that can tolerate moist soil, such as summersweet and dogwood, can be planted there.
Once you find the perfect spot to plant your shrubs according to the soil and sunlight requirements, then you can start planting.
Remove all fallen leaves or natural mulch from the place where you will be planting. Dig the planting hole 2 to 3 times larger than the actual root mass, but not deeper than the plant’s previous establishment. Put the plant in the hole so that none of the flairs is filled with dirt.
When you dig, stack the dirt along the hole’s circumference in two or three separate places. This makes it easy to backfill the shrub after it has been planted.
As the hole seems to be around the correct size, use the shovel or ax handle to measure the size and match it with the container size.
Take the shrub from the holder by shaking nimbly across the pot sides to release it, and then gently slip the plant off. Pulling or yanking on the stem is not permissible. Similarly, you can use a pair of hand pliers to hack the pot free.
Break the Root Pattern
Examine the roots after the plant has been separated from its tub. Split up the pattern if you see them tightly bound in a circular pattern or they seem to expand in the outline of the pot. It is more necessary to avoid this pattern now than to be concerned about damaging the roots. You’ve probably condemned your shrub to a slow death unless you cut the pattern.
It would almost definitely never develop or fulfill even a portion of its ability. Keep in mind that this is the last possible opportunity to do so. Many trees and shrubs have died within months of plantation since no one took the time to pull apart the root-bound pattern.
Plant the Shrub(s)
Insert the plant into the hole to determine its diameter. The rootball’s tip should be level with or just over the surface of the ground. Take the plant and dig up a little more if it seems too high. If it looks too low, fill in space with soil.
When you’ve settled on the most enticing side of the shrub, scrape up the root ball a little with your hands. Get them out of the constrained form that the container has shaped them into. Don’t forget about the importance of breaking the root pattern we mentioned in the previous step.
Backfill with just the soil you dug up. Tap the soil gently around the roots as you backfill, pressing till you hit the top of the root ball. It can be coated with around half inches of soil.
Note: When planting, we do not advise inserting something into the hole or revising the soil. Drainage issues can be triggered by peat moss, fertilizer, garden soil, stacking mix, and other materials, making it impossible for your shrub to grow itself.
Time to Water
Water the shrub properly, ensuring to saturate the rootball and underlying ground. Setting the hose to a low flow and leaving it on for about a couple of hours is the safest way. Apply water along the side of the rootball and take the hose across the plant several times.
Put Some Mulch
Add around 2-3 inches of mulch around the shrub’s core. The mulch can help the soil absorb water and fight weeds from around its root. Avoid positioning the mulch straight at the trunk’s root, as it can allow water to accumulate and induce rot.
Throughout the first season, the shrub shouldn’t dry out. The plant would expend much of its energy gaining roots in the following months, so not much growth on top will be noticeable. Shrubs usually begin to develop aggressively during the second season. The growth accelerates per season as long as the surrounding environment stays optimal.